My Koh Pha Ngan Hill

Many who are involved in competitive sports will tell you that your success is often more dependent on your mental state than your athleticism, that mental strength can overcome physical strength. After some emails on the topic from my former Ultimate Frisbee team and playing on an Australian Football team that has not been able to close games out late, the topic of mental fortitude has been on my mind.

With an Ultimate Frisbee tournament in Malaysia looming, and my fitness deteriorating due to excessive travel and beer, I have been making my final surge to prepare for the competition ahead. It doesn’t help that I’m on Koh Pha Ngan, a island in Thailand that does not emphasize any type of exercise except of the liver. My options for land based fitness are running on the beach or running on the road. The road course I have been running ends with a vicious hill. Up to today I had not yet been able to climb to the top. This is a badass hill. Seriously. Today I was going to do it.

The rest of the run went as usual and I arrived at the hill. At the beginning of it I knew I was going to make it to the top. In the middle I wasn’t so sure. By the time I had reached the point that I had gotten to yesterday, I was pretty sure I wasn’t going to make it.

But that’s not the only thing that went through my mind. I started thinking about my future in sport. At 38, two knee surgeries in, I can’t hang with those young guys on the Thai AFL team that kicked a couple of goals against us on ANZAC day. I can’t run with the new batch of Filipino ultimate players for whom the length of the field seems inadequately short. Watching top level ultimate in the US, the game has passed me by. Maybe time to hang it up.

I was about to stop. The excuses were piling up. There was an indiscriminate sound behind me. Maybe someone needed help. What could I do but stop this incredibly painful thing I was doing. My stride started breaking.

Fuck this. Gotta finish. The top isn’t far. I wasn’t moving fast but I was making progress. I can do this.

I did. I knew it. And that’s not the only thing I thought at that time. Maybe I do have a few years left. I can get fitter and stronger. Maybe I won’t be as fast as all of those fast fucks on the AFL or ultimate field, but my experience and intelligence and make up the difference. I have a lot to contribute in both sports.

It wasn’t additional physical strength that got me to the top of the hill. It was will. It was a mental workout of the type that can contribute to both my immediate and long term success.

The moral of the story is set tough, realistic goals and achieve them. If your workout goals are soft, and easy to accomplish, how is that going to help at the end of games or tournaments when your body is suffering on a level you’re not used to? If your goals are too hard, it will be too easy to suffer crushing failure or to allow yourself to not achieve them while patting yourself on the back for trying.

Once your goals are set, achieve them. Those last meters make all the difference. The more you hurt, the more important it is to push through. Those meters make all the difference. Especially in your head.

I’m clearly no fitness guru, and these lessons are not rocket science. They’re just what I learned at the top of a steep hill in the hot Koh Pha Ngan sun.

Share on TwitterSubmit to StumbleUponDigg This
Posted in An American Playing Aussie Rules in Cambodia | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

AFL: Cambodian Cobras defeat the Vietnam Swans in Five Quarters

Things don’t always go according to plan in Cambodia. The plan: two teams, one venue, four quarters. Not so much.

Background

This was an important game for the Eagles. We were putting out what we thought was our best team yet. We were playing on our brand new home field. And we were competing against our rivals, the Vietnam Swans, who had beaten Cambodian football teams five times in a row in their most recent meetings. Though it was not said explicitly, we all knew that this game had the gravity to greatly affect the course of Cambodian Australian Rules Football, for better or worse.

Friday night

After leaving late from Saigon, the Swannies showed up at their hotel a little after 11pm. Glenn and I represented the Eagles and met them as they got off the bus. A few of them had a solid stumble on already, the bus trip already having been very alcohol-infused. My goal, get them as quickly as possible to a place with more booze and girls. While most of our team was in bed dreaming about footy, I wanted the Swans’ minds to be, well, elsewhere. As we approached Rose Bar, there were some rumblings about being hungry, blah, blah, so we ended up in Pickled Parrot for a relatively quiet meal and a couple beers. Boys headed home soon after except for the guy that I was to be covering the next day. Dropped him and a young lady off at a club at about 2amish. Generally a fail though.

Game Day

Most of the Eagles were at the field by 1pm to talk strategy and warm up. The Swans were nowhere to be seen though. It seems that the bus that the Swans were on took them to Olympic Stadium, exactly not where our game was. Eventually they were set straight but were not allowed to drive across the Japanese Bridge for some reason. Then they were, with, from what I heard, no bribes being paid. I’m still not sure how this happened. Swans finally arrived 130ish (this, like all other numbers in this piece, may not be right, but they sound right to me) for a 2pm kick off.

Game on, we came out strong after the first bounce but were not able to get a major score on the board, the Swans worked back to our side of the field and kicked one through. Then another. Maybe another after that. Not the start we wanted. Nonetheless, the 200-ish supporters who had come out on this toasty day did not give up on us, even though we went into the first break down convincingly. But it was only one quarter. Our coach pounded one message into us. Stay on our men. There were too many loose players. Yes, that’s what we needed to do. Though it wasn’t clear who exactly had been letting us down, we were all determined to improve our defense. The second quarter, though, was not terribly different from the first. We fought hard but went into halftime a few goals behind.

I felt I was doing reasonably well. The player I was assigned had only taken one mark, though the Swans had sent a number of kicks his way (he took a kick at goal but came up short, it was a long kick). I had taken a defensive mark myself and kicked complete to another player. His name is Dukesy. He plays for the Swans. Not the first time I had ever kicked to him. He took the mark. Ran off of it. Then kicked a booming goal from the sideline. Kinda absurd.

Halftime instructions. COVER YOUR MEN. Why couldn’t we understand? It was so simple! They were still open. Though we were down, we were still confident. If we could play them even in the third quarter, in which we were playing upwind, we felt that we could win it in the final one.

We fought our asses off in the third. They may have kicked one more, but we felt good about the way were playing and felt that we had had our first even quarter with them.

Or was it. As the third quarter came to a close, our team trainer noticed something rather interesting about the game. The Swans had 18 players on the field, and we had 16. While 18 is the standard number of players for an Australian Rules Football side, rarely do we play 18s due to field and team size. Somehow, that we wanted to play 16 on 16 had not been communicated clearly, or had not been understood by the Swans. Our defensive lapses and their open men seemed to have a different cause than mental and physical errors by our players. They had two extra men!

So what do we do now? It was determined that the scores would be swept clean, and that we would play two 15-minute halves, and that would be the game.

Eagles vs. Swans, let’s try this again.

You can imagine what was going through the minds of the two team. The Eagles had fought hard for three quarters and felt that they were playing the Swans close to even. Upon hearing that they had been playing on the light side of a lopsided field, their confidence flew. If they can play even against an 18-person Swans team, what will they do against a 16-man squad?

What about the Swans? They had also fought hard for three quarters and were on their way to a convincing win on the Eagles’ home field. Then they were told that the work they had put in was for naught, and they were going to have to beat the Eagles again.

The two teams come out onto the field for the 4th quarter/1st half and their play reflected these attitudes. The Eagles came out flying assisted by the advantage of playing downwind. The guys on the ball loved the extra space they were given and clearances came often. Quickly the Eagles were up two goals. The Eagles kept pushing and the Swans were flat. They fought, but could not put up much resistance to the Eagles’ momentum, which was magnified by loud supporters shouting slurredly at Eagles, Swans, umpires, eachother… all who would listen. We came to the end of the 4th quarter/1st half with the Eagles up like 4 goals.

We had been here before. Leading at the half was no guarantee of any sort for the Eagles, having lost halftime leads many times recently (see my Indochina Cup Write-up). Having the wind in our face and playing against a team with a lot of firepower, we knew that no lead was safe. As the half started, we buckled down. They had a couple chances for goals, but their kicks drifted off-center for behinds. Our defense bent, but did not break. Late in the final period they put in their first goal, but it was far from enough. The Eagles had won. We had beaten our rivals. Gotten our first victory over anyone in many months.

Smiles all around. Though the Swannies had had a tough day, they were gracious in defeat and congratulated us on our performance. Players limped from the field to the coolers and cracked beers which had been calling our names for hours. The best on field awards did not surprise anyone, going to Dukesy of the Swans and Fitzy of the Eagles.

After the Games

The party left the field and moved to Kingdom Brewery. An amazing barbecue buffet and bottomless beer hit the spot for players and supporters alike. Drinking games commenced and drinking accelerated.

The next stop was Sharky’s. The bar was even more packed than usual, as they were having their first “Punk and Disorderly” night, showing off some of the best hard rockin’ talent coming from both the Cambodian and Expat communities. And there were USD1 tequila shots. Ouch.

Next stop Heart of Darkness. Of course. Hard to believe the Swannies would have come this far without at least one stop at Phnom Penh’s infamous late night haunt.

A hardcore crew of Swannies and a couple Eagles then continued well into the night…

While I was sleeping in, my spies reported that the next day, the Swans’ bus coolers had been refilled and a new bottle of tequila had been purchased for the ride home. The aches from the day (and night) before were going to be managed by ice cold beer and Mexican medicine. ‘Cause that’s how footy players do.

The Eagles will be headed back to Saigon for the return match later this year.

Thanks to the Swans for a hell of a battle and great weekend.

Share on TwitterSubmit to StumbleUponDigg This
Posted in An American Playing Aussie Rules in Cambodia | Tagged , , , , | 3 Comments

Indochina Cup, 2011

Indochina Cup 2011 Aussie rules football

Indochina Cup 2011. Indochina Cup is an Australian Rules Football Competition between teams from Laos, Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam. This year it was hosted in Vientiane by the Lao Elephants, who put on an outstanding show.

Indochina Cup Sponsors

Thank you to the sponsors who made it happen including Lao Tobacco and an Australian mining interest.

Arrival at the Ground

So we all got to the ground semi-bright and early-ish, every team ready to have a crack. The defending champs Vietnam Swans, the skillful, though under-rated Thai Tigers, the home team, the Lao Elephants, and the improving, hungry, brilliant, dashing, Cambodian Eagles. The ground looked to be in good shape, though a bit small.

Indochina Cup 2011

Here some of the boys are testing the ground. You could see the fire in every handpass. The Lao boys put in some hard work to get these grounds playable and it really paid off.

Indochina Cup footy 2011

The fans began pouring in.

Indochina Cup Footy 2011

And more fans were rolling in...

 

Opening Ceremony

We gathered up and the president of the Lao Elephants and the Australian Ambassador to Laos said a few words. About the grounds. About Footy. Probably about cricket, and piss and rooting as well. Wasn’t really paying attention. Too jacked to play. There was some nice talk about tobacco and mining and a moment of silence for flood victims in the region. I do remember that.

They played the Lao and Australian national anthems and we were off…

Round 1

Fans at Indochina Cup 2011

By ball up of the first game the stands were packed with fans fired up for some footy...

Booze list from Indochina Cup

...or the cheap piss.

Lao vs. Thailand

(all preliminary games were scheduled for two 15-minute halves with a 7-minute halftime)

This was actually a very entertaining game with both sides showing skills. A lot of points went up on the board. Eventually the experience of the Thai team won out and the Thais took the game going away.

 

Thai vs. Lao Indochina Cup Football

Ball up in the Thai Tigers-lao Elephants opener. Not the original ball up but not too long after.

Indochina Cup Football, 2011

Another contest from the Thai-Lao matchup.

Cambodia vs. Vietnam (no pictures as carrying a camera while playing is some sorta violation)

Yes, another Cambodia-Vietnam matchup to open an Indochina cup. With the bad feelings from the battle a year ago extinguished, both teams expected a battle (I didn’t actually ask any Vietnam Swans about their feelings going into the game, but we can assume they were afraid of us). Could this be the one where the Cambodian Eagles break through?

Early it looked like this would be the year. In previous matchups, the early minutes of the game were evenly fought with Vietnam’s advantage coming with their ability to convert opportunities into goals. This time the shoe was on the other foot. While Vietnam penetrated the Cambodian backline a couple of times they weren’t able to put major scores on the board. On the other side, Cambodia made the most of their opportunities, able to take a two goal lead into half time.

The Eagles came out confidently in the second half, but it was quickly clear that the second half would not be a repeat of the first. Swans skills and legs began to show. The Swans’ Luke “Dukesy” Creamer kicked a couple in the second half including one that was absolutely absurd. Kicking just about over his shoulder from, I don’t know distances, 85 meters or so. The Swans took over. When the ball slipped by a retarded-looking Eagles’ back pocket player who will rename nameless (his name has five letters and starts with ‘J’), the Swans’ President Phil Johns picked it up and kicked through a gimme. The Swans’ lead was three goals. Game over.

1st Break

Incochina Cup, Vientiane, Laos, AFL

Now we rest.

Round 2

Laos vs. Vietnam

It was a spirited effort by the Lao boys early, but they were eventually overpowered and out-skilled by the Swans, losing 22-10.

Indochina Cup AFL

Elephants are about to have a possession. How ya feel about that Swannies...

Thailand vs. Cambodia

The game was tied at half though we thought we were getting the best of play. In the second half we were dominated. They worked the ball up nicely through their forward pocket (my bad) and then kept pounding it into their full forward who had a fantastic game. One again a game that we were very competitive in, but that got out of hand in the second half. Fitness anyone?

2nd Break

The prospectus promised a “dance performance” during our lunch break. I expected some performers showing us a bit of the rich dance culture that Laos has to offer. Not so much…

Indochina Cup Dancers, AFLLaos indochina Cup Dancers

What we had was some young ladies (emphasize young) from the local International School busting some hip-hop dance that included a significant amount of booty-shaking…

Round 3

The schedule had originally called for a third round of games and then the finals and consolation games. As Cambodia and Laos were yet to win a game, and Thailand and Vietnam had won both of theirs, the third round was useless. Instead we went ahead and played extended consolation and championship games.

Laos vs. Cambodia for the Bronze medal

This was another of those games in which we started strong and then…

This was a relatively even game through the first two quarters with the Eagles having a slight edge. With the third and fourth, things changed, again. The game ended after the horn when Laos’ Santisouk Sengdara kicked a goal from the boundary to tie the game at 29 apiece. Props to Laos for having a great local contingent playing. An example for all of the teams in the region to follow.

The Championship Game: Thailand vs. Vietnam

I didn’t see much of this game as my burger took a long time to make, and I have no photos as my camera was being annoying. From what I saw it was Vietnamese domination. They took a four goal lead into the fourth quarter and won by something like 54-11.

Vietnam’s “Dukesy” took home “Best on Ground,” very deservingly.

The Eagles’ Style Game

Though our performance on the field could have been better. We looked great.

Rory at Indochina Cup

A few of our players were representing "Movember" well sporting some, well, special facial hair, like Rory.

Chhaya, Indochina Cup AFL

Chhaya wanted me to take a picture of him stretching. There's a reason he's our stretching captain...

Coining in Vientiane, Indochina Cup

Out here our trainers have slightly different ways of doing things from their colleagues in the west. For some minor ailments, "coining" is seen as an appropriate fix. An oil or balm of some sort is applied to the skin, then a coin is pressed against the skin firmly in straight lines until you look like this.

After the matches

The Vietnamese boys were nice enough to set up the bus with Beam and cokes for the ride home.

The party moved to Bor Pen Yang bar where we plowed through a buffet and as much of the free booze (after we bought tickets) as we could before the place closed at 11pmish. We then moved on to Donchan Nightclub. I think I hung with a bunch of the Vietnam boys. It is all pretty hazy though.

A good show by our Lao hosts and congrats to the Swans.

Share on TwitterSubmit to StumbleUponDigg This
Posted in An American Playing Aussie Rules in Cambodia | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

Cashew Season Begins

Late february brings a familiar scent to Banlung, cashew fruit. Though harvesting will not fully commence for another month or so, the cashew fruits have begun to swell and fall from their trees. The distinctive sour fruit smell is unavoidable on the outskirts of town. These pictures come from near Yaklom Lake.

Cashew tree, Banlung, CambodiaCashew Fruit, banlung, Cambodia

Cashews grow one per fruit. The fruit is edible, though eating it is not the most pleasurable experience. The nut, on the other hand, is not edible until it goes through a special process which takes the slightly toxic coating off the nut. This happens in Vietnam, the cashew’s next stop.

Cashew on road, Banlung, Ratanakiri

Cashew trees along the roadCashew Fruits, Banlung, Ratanakiri, Cambodia

Fat Cashew Tree, Banlung, Ratanakiri, Cambodia

Cashew tree, banlung, RatanakiriCashew fruit, banlung, Ratanakiri

 

Share on TwitterSubmit to StumbleUponDigg This
Posted in Ratanakiri Life | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Cambodia Buddhist Temple of Dallas

Cambodia Buddhist Temple of Dallas, Taxas, USA

During my last trip to the US, I took a roadtrip, during which I tried to stop by as many Khmer Buddhist temples as possible. Here we have some of the shots I took at the beautiful “Cambodia Buddhist Temple of Dallas.”

Cambodia buddhist Temple, Dallas, Texas, USA

Cambodia Buddhist Temple, Dallas, Texas, USA

Cambodia Buddhist Temple, Dallas, Texas, USA

Cambodia Buddhist Wat Dallas, Texas, USA

Cambodia Buddhist Temple of Dallas

Cambodia Buddhist Temple Dallas, Texas, USA

Cambodia Buddhist Wat Dallas, Texas, USACambodia Buddhist Temple Dallas, Texas, USA

Thank you very much to the folks over at the wat in Dallas for letting me look around and take some photos.

www.cambodiantemple.org is their website.

Share on TwitterSubmit to StumbleUponDigg This
Posted in Road Trip USA | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

The Gialai Provincial Museum

Sometimes you go to a museum to check out what’s in a museum, sometimes you go to check out the museum itself. My trip to the Pleiku’s Gialai Provincial museum was of the latter sort. The representation of ethnic minority peoples by those with the power to represent them has been an interest of mine for many years (see The Statues of Pleiku as well). So the Gia Lai Provincial Museum was a must see.

I had been to the Gialai Museum of Ethnicities in 2003, and it looks like this museum absorbed that one, with some notable losses (Kpa Klong pictures. Grrr. See my statues piece.)

Gia Lai Provincial Museum, Pleiku, Vietnam

The Gialai Provincial Museum. If you were worried about parking, don't be.

Gial lai Museum, Pleiku, Vietnam

This is what I love. Take a look. You have minority livelihoods, technological advancement, indigenous architecture, nationalism, music, agricultural development, local landscape... all in one partially coherent piece of art. That all of these things go together is the major overall theme, and argument, of the museum.

Upon entering, and after the staff turns on the museum lights, you asked to deal with your feet. I’m always ready to take my shoes off, having spent a lot of time in Asia. They wanted me to do something different…

Gialai Museum, Pleiku, Vietnam

So they did not ask me to take off my shoes. Instead I was instructed to take these "footies" and put them on over my flip-flops. Um. Ok.

The museum is made up of a couple of wings on the first floor and a couple of rooms on the second. The interior is still under construction as there are empty rooms on the second floor awaiting exhibits.

Generally what you’ll see in the museum covers all the topics introduced in the mural on the front of the museum. There are exhibits about minority culture and Gialai wildlife, as well as archaeology. On top of that you can see the economic progress made in the province as well as the role ethnic minorities played in defending the region from outside invasions and in supporting the communist party. Once again, it is an interesting museum, and, like all museums, represents well the views of those who built it.

Some of the highlights for me…

Ethnicities of Vietnam, Pleiku, Vietnam

(Sorry about the low quality pic. Taken with my IPad.) What we have here are the 54 ethnic groups of Vietnam presented as stamps. Together the groups are called the "community of ethnic groups of Vietnam." There are 54 of them. No more, less. Everyone who lives in Vietnam belongs to one of these groups, no more, no less. These groups are different, as shown in the stamps, but together form a community who all love Vietnam and want to contribute to its development, etc., etc.

 

Gia Lai Ethnic groups, Pleiku, Vietnam

Here's a close-up (low quality once again). What makes the groups different are dress, architecture, and music. There may be other differences, but none that are "backward" or that conflict with each group's determination to contribute to Vietnam's development.

Ho Chi Minh with ethnic minorities, Pleiku, Vietnam

And if you didn't know it, ethnic minority people loved Uncle Ho.

Gia Lai animals, Pleiku, Vietnam

Gia Lai has some cool animals. They're very tasty too.

Gia Lai Museum, Pleiku, Vietnam

One thing I love about Vietnamese museums is that there is always a war room. You could be visiting a "Puppies are Cute" museum and there will be a room dedicated to how canines supported the Vietnamese in repelling outside invaders. Here's the war room in the Gia Lai museum. Guns! And there will probably be something about how ethnic minorities in the region had a great desire to see Vietnam reunited under the Vietnamese Communist Party...

Gia Lai Museum, Pleiku, Vietnam

Oh, there it is.

Nup, Gia Lai Museum, Pleiku, Vietnam

Here we have some photographs, clothes, and far implements of the Hero Nup, who stands tall in a statue just outside of the museum. See my discussion of his and Kpa Klong's statue to check it out.

Gia Lai Museum, Pleiku, Vietnam

Hard to see, especially with the low quality IPad image. Here we have a moment of the war being reenacted by toy soldiers. If you can't see, to the right there are invaders being crushed by rocks. On the left, soldiers are being impaled by nasty spikey things.

Gialai Provincial Museum, Pleiku, Vietnam

Candid.

FULRO

FULRO was a highland minority resistance organization that fought against both the South Vietnamese/American forces and the NLF during their existence. Here is a (surprising) display of some of their patches, including the three-starred flag, and a photo of some of its members on the way to jail, where they spent a lot of time during the 1960s and after.

Music and Dancing, Gia Lai Museum

But when it all comes down to it, the minorities of Gia Lai, really just like music, and dancing...

Jar wine, Gia Lai Museum, Pleiku, Vietnam

..of course, drinking. Really though, the jar is a symbol that Vietnamese use to represent minority people in many situations. Jars are central to highland culture, but the representations of the highland people as drunks ensure that the jar does not have a neutral meaning in most situations, in my opinion.

 

Then I returned my footies.

Share on TwitterSubmit to StumbleUponDigg This
Posted in Ratanakiri Life | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

The Statues of Pleiku

Pleiku is different from many other places in Vietnam. While it is definitely a Vietnamese city, it is also a frontier town. It sits in the Central Highlands, a region of non-Vietnamese ethnic groups that did not see very much ethnic Vietnamese immigration until the French colonial period. Though highland-lowland economic relationships date to before the Vietnamese arrived in what is now the southern part of Vietnam, the Vietnamese and Highlanders had minimal interactions due to highlander aversion to Vietnamese control, Vietnamese fear of the highland forests, and laws that restricted intermarriage (see Pelley, Hickey, etc. Full references on request).

With the reunification of Vietnam, the highland ethnic groups, along with all other ethnicities in the country had to take their places within the Vietnamese ethnic landscape. The 54 ethnic groups may have different religions, cultures, languages, etc. but they are all part of the Vietnamese nation and shall work towards the development of Vietnam while holding on to (some of) their distinctive traits. That’s the idea.

You can see this in these two statues I will mention here.

(I wish I could do more than mention them but there is little in English written about those represented. In the old Ethnicities Museum in Pleiku (circa 2003) there used to be pictures of Kpa Klong and captions in Vietnamese and English, I think. When that museum moved and became the Gialai Provincial Museum I guess they were lost. The new museum does have pictures and captions about Anh Hung Nup, but it is written in Vietnamese, and I can’t read Vietnamese as well as I used to. I have taken pictures of the plaques on the statues if anyone Vietnamese readers wants to help us by translating)

What you get here are just some amateur observations and interpretations. In both cases I start at the front and walk around the statues clockwise.

Kpa Klong Statue in Pleiku, Vietnam

The first time I saw this statue was 2003. I had just begun to study highland Vietnam and for me this was the epitome of how ethnic minorities are represented in Vietnam. Kpa Klong in battle mode. Eyes forward. Machine gun in one hand. Grenade in the other. Ready to kick the foreigners out of his country. But this is clearly not a Kinh (ethnic Vietnamese) soldier. The clothing tells you that. While fighting to defend Vietnam against foreign invaders, he still holds on to his identity as an ethnic Jarai man. Here we see the duality of identity that reflects Vietnamese ideas of ethnicity and nationalism. Ethnic Jarai, of the nation of Vietnam.

Kpa Klong Sign in Pleiku, Vietnam

Kpa Klong. Young hero.

Kpa Klong wrestles a tank, Pleiku, Vietnam

Kpa Klong attacks a tank. Badass.

Kpa Klong's Story, Pleiku, Vietnam

I get the gist. Came from a poor family. Wanted to join the army but was too young. Eventually joined and became a war hero and he was only 19. Any help with the rest is appreciated.

Kpa Klong shooting foreign soldiers, Pleiku, Vietnam

Kpa Klong killing foreign soldiers and shooting down helicopters.

Anh Hung Nup, Pleiku, Vietnam

I don't know much about Nup. He was an ethnic Bahnar who began his service to Vietnam by fighting against the French in the 1930s. He led ethnic minority guerillas against the french, fighting until he was about 50 years old. After that he held a number of local and national positions within the Vietnamese government. In 1964 he was invited by Fidel Castro to visit Cuba. And he ended up growing a sweet beard. (All of this info came from the Vietnamese Wikipedia entry on him. Thank you Google Translate.)

Anh Hung Nup, Pleiku, Vietnam

He lived a long time.

Anh Hung Nup Fights Foreigners, Pleiku, Vietnam

There's a lot happening in this picture. Nup and his buddies are shooting foreigners with crossbows, a preferred weapon of the highlanders. They are also using these homemade spiked balls that I don'd know much about, but that I saw at the Gialai museum. They look like they could really hurt you. At the bottom, there are women making the spiky things. This is another feature you see in Vietnamese nationalistic art, the participation of women. Of course, once again, those pictured aren't ethnic Vietnamese (Kinh). These are highlanders. You can see that by the dress, the traditional house in the background, and the jars. Nonetheless these ethnic minority people are part of the Vietnamese nation and fought for its independence.

Nup Victorious, Pleiku, Vietnam

I believe what we see here is victorious Nup. What's notable in this picture is that there seems to be an ethnic Kinh visitor who has come to share in the festivities...

Anh Hung Nup returns home

Victory behind them, it's back to day-to-day life for the villagers. Nonetheless they are always vigilant and ready to defend their homeland against foreigners again (see the guys still ready to fight to the right).

 

Share on TwitterSubmit to StumbleUponDigg This
Posted in Ratanakiri Life | Tagged , , , , , | 1 Comment

How to get from Pleiku to Banlung for only $1135

(If you want a sleeping, eating, doing report about Pleiku, check out my Pleiku page)

I have lived in Cambodia a short while now and there are many things that I understand in the abstract but of which I have not experienced enough to fully understand practically. One is corruption. Statistics get thrown around and I have pushed some dollar bills at Phnom Penh traffic cops, but what does corruption look like?

I still don’t know, but my most recent experience let me see at least a part of how it manifests itself in Northeastern Cambodia (I can hear the “uh-oh”s coming from Madison right now. Don’t worry, this story is not as exciting as you think it will be).

So it was about mid-day. I was finishing a Banlung-Phnom Penh-Ho Chi Minh City-Pleiku-Banlung trip. I had just one leg to go, the stretch from Le Thanh, the Vietnamese town that sits just at the Cambodian border, to my apartment in Banlung. It had never been hard to find a seat in a vehicle heading across the border before, but today it was. Eventually I was directed towards a young (18-ish), attractive Cambodian girl (from now on known as “Big Sister”). She was taking a van to Banlung. There was a lot of space, but no seats. If I didn’t mind sitting on the stack of cases of tonic water that sat just behind the front seats she would take me (and a German tourist who had wondered over to me looking for a way to cross) to Banlung for USD5 each. No worries.

Big Sister wore a loose-fitting sweat suit, one that was clearly meant to be seen and not used. Her jewelry, gold, gems, said wealth, but I had seen wealthy young Khmer girls before. The girlie pocketbook she carried was one of those that had the puppy face on the front, with the ears flopping out in front of it. And that pocketbook was filled with cash. I caught a quick glance. Looked to be mostly Cambodian Riel, so I wasn’t too impressed.

Off we went. The German, a young Cambodian boy, and I sat on the cases of tonic water. Behind us were five styrofoam coolers. Dunno what they had inside of them. And an older lady sitting on the spare tire which was also back there. Big Sister sat in the passenger seat. The driver wore large, mirrored sunglasses that reminded me of CHiPs. But being Cambodian reminded me also of the guy who said “Mien loi mien omneich!” in One Night after the War.

Our first stop was Vietnamese passport control. The German, Big Sister and I got out. The passport officer, a young, skinny guy forced to work in large sterile office in a large, sterile building gave Big Sister’s passport a quick look and a stamp but took his time with the foreigners. While we waited, Big Sister bounced over to the agricultural inspector window at passed what seemed to be two 200,000 VND bills (~USD20) to the other skinny guy sitting alone in other large sterile office. Nothing too exciting. Eventually the passport officer got bored of seeing both the live and passport versions of me and the German and sent us on our way.

Back into the van for the quick trip to the Cambodian checkpoint.

Four officers manned the small shack that was the Cambodian checkpoint. Three of their bodies showed the prosperity that came with their jobs, bellies hiding their belt buckles as they sat reading newspapers and chatting (the other was a younger guy who had to do all of the passport stamping). Big Sister wandered right over to the officers on break, flashing “I’m kinda innocent” smiles. While the German waited for the visa application paperwork to arrive (visas-on-arrival are available here, they just don’t happen often enough for the office to be stocked with all the necessary paperwork), I got my stamps and grabbed a newspaper. Eventually the paperwork arrived, the German filled it out and paid up, Big sister told one of the officers that he was naughty for saying what he did when he checked out the pictures on her cell phone, I realized that I really need a dictionary when trying to read Khmer newspapers, and we were off.

We didn’t get far. We stopped a few kilometers up the road at a wooden guardhouse in front of a particular building (I know which it is, but I think that’s too much detail).

During this short stretch of road, Big Sister had got to counting. She pulled some hundred dollar bills out of the doggie pocketbook, counting out six, and threw the rest back. She then pulled out some Moni’s (the Moni is what I call the 20,000 riel notes that have HRH King Sihamoni’s picture on them. “Moni” is not in use yet, but it will be, it will be…), 20 of them (=~USD100). When we pulled up to the guard house she bounced out of the van, the wad of bills very visible in her right hand, and wandered up to the guard on duty. Soon she came back, counted out another 20 Moni’s, and took them to the officer. When she came back, 800USD lighter, the older lady in the back told her that the foreigners were wondering about all this money changing hands, which I readily admitted to, though decided it best not to ask any questions to quench this curiosity .

We continued on to a police checkpoint, which most people drove through. She pulled over, hopped out, and gave one of the officers 60,000 riel (~USD15). She also worked some of her flirtatious magic. Hitting the officers with their traffic stick. there was clearly a reason that she was given this job. The young boy got out and grabbed a couple small bottles of water from behind where the officers were sitting. I guess they cost USD7.50 each.

We passed through O’Yadaw. Just to the west of town we stopped at a presst non-descript little house. Big Sister gave the man sitting in front USD200 and 200,000 riel (~USD50).

Finally, at one more police checkpoint she put together 200,000 riel (~USD50) and handed it to an officer.

After this final payment she began to compute how much she had paid to whom. She had recorded all the amounts on a sheet of paper and now took out a calculator to do the math. Upon finishing that task, she then took account of how much she had left. She pulled a wad of USD100 bills from the doggie pocketbook and began to count. Looking over her shoulder as she flicked through the paper I counted a couple bills more than USD4000. She recorded the amount and closed the doggie.

After all this money that had left the doggie pocketbook during this trip, the German and I knew that the USD10 coming from us was not a huge consideration. But when we got to my apartment, the German, who was staying right across the street, and I paid up and Big Sister went on her way.

She told me she crosses the border every day.

(If you want more info about Banlung or Pleiku, check out my Banlung and Pleiku pages.)

Share on TwitterSubmit to StumbleUponDigg This
Posted in Ratanakiri Life | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Paradise?

I just heard someone call Don Det “paradise.”

Discuss.

Share on TwitterSubmit to StumbleUponDigg This
Posted in Travelers Observed | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Direct from Banlung to Vientiane by Bus

So I have to get to Vientiane for the Indochina Cup Aussie Rules football tournament. I’m in Banlung, Ratanakiri, Cambodia. I’m poor.

Not wanting to plan to far ahead I decide to try to get to Paxse and figure out my next step from there. Out here plans can change quickly, so you don’t want to set up too rigid of a schedule. So, Paxse. I bought my ticket to Paxse from Parrot Tours, since their office was right across the street from my house. USD21. The first step was to catch a minibus to Stung Treng at 730am from in front of the office. At 727am I was finishing a cup of coffee at the restaurant next to theParrot Tours office when a minibus honked its horn while driving by. I gathered my crap and ran out front. The van headed off. So I stood and waited for it to return. It didn’t. At about 74am5 someone from Parrot Tours arrived to open the office and found me waiting there. He set me up with another minibus which picked me up around 8am. After circling town a bit, we picked up one more passenger and we were off with only 14 passengers, 3 per row, absolute minimum load I’ve seen a minibus take. Sweet. 820am.

950am. Pulled over for a quick bite. 10 minutes. The thing I like about traveling by minibus as opposed to bigger busses is the pace. Fewer, shorter stops. The trade off is the lack of leg room. Back on the minibus again…

1026am. We’ve stopped along the road. The driver has an envelope to deliver. He’s made a couple calls. He’s looking down a side road. No one approaches the car. No one calls. 1032am we pull up a bit, stop again. Driver gets out. Back in the car. Call made. Waiting… Driver leaves car again, with envelope. Driver comes back without the envelope, and we’re off again. 1041am.

1048am. Just made the turn towards Stung Treng. 1058am Arrival Stung Treng.

So they’re telling me that the bus to Paxse should leave around 3pm. Time to kill. But they say that I still should be able to make the overnight bus from Paxse to Vientiane. Hope so…

A couple beers at Riverside (aka Reverside) then it was off to that other place I like to eat.

A couple of these biking everywhere types just asked if the food at this place is good. Yup. If you like chicken and rice, which I do. Back to Riverside. At about 250pm we were told that we should move to the Sorya bus station to wait as the bus was coming soon. 345pm, bus arrival. 350pm, headed to the border.

The Sorya bus rep booked my bus ticket from Pakse to Vientiane. USD20. 830pm. I’ll be on my way tonight. I hope.

523pm. We’re waiting. We are sitting in the pergatory between Cambodia and Laos. The bus is stopped. Not sure why. We filled out our arrival cards on the way to the Cambodian border. For an American, the visa cost USD36 plus a stamp fee of USD2 at the Cambodian checkpoint and USD2 at the Lao checkpoint (Yes, visa on arrival is available. And has been for years). For USD1 more the bus company rep would take your passport and handle all the formalities at each point in the process. So USD41 is what I paid to get into Laos. After hanging out at the edge of Cambodia while papers were stamped and money was counted, we’re back on the bus, and not moving. It’s getting dark. 530pm…

624pm We’ve dropped off the backpackers heading to Don Det/Khon/Khong/Knotts. The bus is much emptier though we’ve gained a few random extras, maybe coming from the Dons heading north. Kinda getting worried about that bus I have to catch in Pakse in a couple hours…

835pm We roll into the Pakse bus station. Those of us headed to Vientiane are hearded onto the sleeper bus. The guy my ticket has assigned me to cuddle with is pretty small and seems reasonable (sleeper busses are double decker busses with skinny beds on each side of the aisle. These beds are shared by two people. below average size people work best). Shouldn’t be a problem. And wasn’t. It was a little tight, but he didn’t mind shooting his legs into the aisle to give me room. 845pm we’re off.

A little advice about sleeping on sleeper busses…

Slept a little. 130am, quick bathroom break. Problem. Didn’t get any kip. 1000kip to use the bathroom and the USD5 note I had wasn’t going to get me anywhere. Scan, scan, scan… Boom! ATM. Took a million out and was now allowed to urinate. Just in time to get back on the bus.

As I was a little excited about being able to hit the john, I wasn’t headed right to sleep. Took out my knockoff DVD player and my pirated Flight of the Conchords. A couple brilliant episodes then it was back to sleep.

We rolled into a Vientiane bus station at about 620am. I grabbed my gear and a guy offered me a ride in a crowded shared transport to the center of town for 20,000 kip. Seemed expensive, but better to take it than to ask someone about the price, as that would show weakness. It took about 15 minutes to get to town so 20,000 didn’t seem that bad.

So 23 hours or so after departing Banlung, I was in Vientiane.

 

Share on TwitterSubmit to StumbleUponDigg This
Posted in Ratanakiri Life | Tagged , , | Leave a comment